HAYES VALLEY. Absinthe recalls the days of Dorothy Parker and her circle of witty, sardonic critics. Along with dicing celebrities, they took great pleasure in good food and drink. Plenty of both can be found here, and weekend brunch is especially delightful. Champagne and wines balance the cuisine, which includes cold seafood platters, imported French cheeses, and coq au vin. A tasty caesar salad and a risotto with fava beans, basil, and parmesan are also great options. To sum up ­ absolutely faultless!

HAYES VALLEY. Remember the Alamo...for exceptional seafood that is! This popular restaurant, owned by the same man as the beloved Baker Street Bistro, is applauded regularly for fantastic food and reasonable prices. Salmon and crab cakes alone keep the place at the top of any food list, and fish can be sauteed, grilled, or blackened and then topped with any number of lush sauces. Everything is fresh too, from homemade breads to mussels and classic Continental desserts. A French tendency colors the menu, adding a touch of earthy sophistication.

UNION SQUARE. A small, old-fashioned French bistro, Anjou is tucked away from the chaos of Union Square, a cozy respite for passers-by. Selections range from Gallic foods to pastas and dishes with Californian flair. Chef Pierre Morin's specialty desserts are wonderful, especially Anjou pears in warm sabayon. Just one taste of the delicacy will transport you to the Loire Valley's Anjou, Morin's homeplace and the inspiration for his cuisine.

COW HOLLOW. Don't be taken aback if the lively owner of this cozy brunch spot hails you from the street, inviting you into the comfortable neighborhood bistro. Expertly prepared food is a mainstay, and pastries (like raspberry and apple turnovers) almost always sell out. Still, you can make the most of omelets, baguette sandwiches, eggs Benedict, goat cheese salad, pasta, and desserts. Prices are surprisingly affordable, which is always a nice perk.

SOMA. Since April 1993, chef-owner Loretta Keller has been enticing customers with creative French fare. Bizou (which means "little kiss") offers dishes that depart from what you may find in other restaurants. Mixing French culture and California attitude, the lively bistro delivers such temptations as batter-fried green beans with fig dipping sauce and country-style braised beef cheeks. Not all items are as extravagant, though, as indicated by wood-fired pizzas and pear salad.